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Simple Photography Rules and Tips
and Tips
 Know Your Equipment - You need to know you equipment. Some cameras, especially digital cameras, will deliver a different image than what you saw. Knowing the difference will help you make the most use of whatever capture medium that you are using. Look at the different setting on the camera. Even if ou are a manual kind of person knowing what the main settings can do will help you with your photography. - Different camera brands and different len's will react differently in a given situation. When you take a picture that doesn't work try to remember the scenario and the next time you try that particular situtaion you will know what did not work. Remember, Thomas Edison tried 1000 versions of the light bulb before it worked.
- SUNNY 16 - On a bright sunny day, set your aperture on 16 and
your
shutter speed as close as possible to your films ISO rating. This can be an excellent basis when you are without a light meter or have subjects with extreme bright or dark areas. Even as reliable as this is you should still plan to bracket your exposure. A more in-depth article on this subject can be found on this page. [Click Here]
- Moon Photography
** Full Moon
f-11- For proper exposure of a full moon, set your
aperture on 11 and your shutter speed as close to your films ISO
rating as possible.
**
HALF MOON 8- Use the above rule for shutter speed and use an
aperture of 8 for pictures of a half moon.
** QUARTER MOON f-5.6- Use the above rule for shutter speed and use
an
aperture of5.6 for pictures of a quarter moon.
A more in-depth article on this subject can be found on this page. [Click Here]
- SUNSETS DUSK and Night -
Sunsets - Meter the area of sky directly above sun and use this
setting as the basis for exposure. Using one f-stop less light
will
produce the effect of a picture taken one half hour later.
Dusk and Night Shots
Dusk shots These are best taken about 15-30 minutes after sunset, when there is still some color in the sky. To add depth, find an object coming towards you in the viewfinder. Use a good quality tripod. Camera meters usually give fair results but bracketing is always agood rule of thumb. A FL-D magenta filter can help overcome the tungsten lights on daylight settings while adding some pink to the sky.
Part of what you are dealing with in this scenario is that the sun produces a hot spot for the meter which makes it want to underexpose the whole scene. You can use the tips above or you can use the compensation setting on the camera to let it overexpose.
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PHOTOGRAPHIC GRAY CARD- When the camera meters a mid-tone the
scene will be properly exposed. In a pinch try the palm of your
hand and close 1/2 stop. A new handy tool that is available for digital photographers is a card which looks much like the example below. This handy tool is great for color balance, looking at exposure, and at the computer correcting color. When you photograph it and look at the histogram you will see three spikes. If those three spikes are left, middle, and right your exposure will be correct. In addition, when you are looking at color correction at the computer having a photgraph of these colors will be invaluable. One of the best articles explaining how to use this on the computer can be found on Bermangraphics.com.
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ISO SPEED- Use the lowest film speed (ISO) you can to preserve
sharpness, color saturation and reduce grain. This applies to digital or film photographers. However, always keep in mind how fast your subject is moving, focal length, and the need for depth of field when deciding on the ISO speed.
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FILL FLASH - For flash use outdoors, place the ISO setting for
the
film you are using on your camera meter. Double this number and
place
it on the flash ISO dial. Meter the scene with the camera and
select
an f-stop. Match this f-stop requirement with the automatic flash color mode controls. Shadows will be filled with flash lighting
and appear one stop darker than the fully illuminated subject.
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BRACKETING - Digital cameras are much like shooting slide film. They need accurate exposure and they do not tolerate oveer exposure. Take advantage of the lack of film cost and bracket whenever you can and you do not have control of the lighting. Even if you are shooting fiilm bracketing is still needed when you are unsure of the proper expsoure.
The esscence of bracketing is taking multiple exposures of the subject and varying the exposure. In fact, some cameras
have this as an option. In essence, you can expose an image for the highlights, midtones, and shadows and then use those images to build a final one or to just to be sure you have it.
How much? That depends upon if you are shooting digital, negative or slide. For negative use 1 f-stop minimum. For slide 1/2 stop increments. For digital you should use 1/2 stop variations. However, these are just guides. Look at your subject.
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RULE" OF THIRDS - Place your center of interest,
vertically or
horizontally, at the 1/3 and 2/3 points in your viewfinder for a stronger composition.
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DEPTH OF FIELD- Depth of field is defined as the area of an image that is in focus. The higher your f-stop the greater that area. Many modern lens no longer show the area that is in focus. One thing that many photographers forget is that the area of focus goes in front and behind the point of focus. This can be very helpful when you want to have more or less area behind the point of focus. Based upon your f-stop you can change the point of focus to adjust a background or foreground and keep your primary subject in focus.
- Which lens to use? That depends upon what you are wanting to achieve. Telephoto lens have a flattening effect which can change the depth perception of subject to background. It also has a smaller depth of field which combined with the flattening effect makes it a good choice for portraits. A wide angle lens has a greater depth of field and obvious field of view. Great for tight spaces and shots where depth of field is needed.
- Bad Weather Bad weather doesn't mean staying inside. You will have many options. But Stay SAFE!
Overcast These skies reduce contrast and are preferred for trees and foliage. Colors may appear cool and blueish so add an 81A, B, or C filter to warm up the image or use a gray card with your digital camera. If the sky is boring, cover it with an overhanging tree, or exclude it completely by lowering the horizon in your frame. When low clouds or rain reduce color saturation, try using B&W or infrared techniques to create dramatic images.
Storms These can add drama to an image. Right after a storm you have many options for reflections. Clouds create moving patterns of interesting highlights, particularly when a storm is clearing. Fog gives landscape primordial or surreal look.
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